- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 10
Hi everybody, i'm from quebec, i search only parts for Iltis can you help me? Email me if you can
thx a lot
thx a lot
Whole Iltis Purchase
- Thread starter Jinxed
- Start date
Itlis are cute. Not quite cuddely thoo. Not a bad little truck. I was in when they were new.
If you type Iltis into your search engine you will actually find MANY links regarding their life in worldwide Rally circles. I don't recall having seen one do the Dakar recently, but they have proven there worth elsewhere over the years. Last time I punched Iltis into eBay, I found some 1/48 scale models of older Rally models. Pretty sharp looking, and very similar spec's to the CF Iltis
As was mentioned, follow the auction houses and the Auto Traders. I have seen many there since they started to be surplused off. eBay has lots of parts from time to time.
PEI Pat
If you type Iltis into your search engine you will actually find MANY links regarding their life in worldwide Rally circles. I don't recall having seen one do the Dakar recently, but they have proven there worth elsewhere over the years. Last time I punched Iltis into eBay, I found some 1/48 scale models of older Rally models. Pretty sharp looking, and very similar spec's to the CF Iltis
As was mentioned, follow the auction houses and the Auto Traders. I have seen many there since they started to be surplused off. eBay has lots of parts from time to time.
PEI Pat
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 210
Many of the Iltis now for sale are worse for wear, that's for sure. There are many sources for parts. My first reccomendation would be to get a real VW carb and throw away the Bombardier one. It's proably been rebuilt 20 times over the last 25 years. Also, check the fuel tanks. A few years back, someone had the brilliant idea of putting anti-explosion plastic beads/mesh/foam stuff in the tank. Good idea, except for the fact that gasoline eats plastic and this stuff ended up all through the fuel system.
I heard tell (can not confirm in anyway/shape/ or form) that there is a mod kit that would allow you to put an Audi Quatro (5 cyl) engine into an Iltis. Any mods that can be done to a VW 4 cylinder gas engine (of appropriate year) should be able to be done to an Iltis. Only the body was different.
For those that have bought/been thinking about buying, check the frame at the point where the roll bar connects to the body (basically right beside the front seats). Many of them have extremely bad stress cracks. You may want to cut out the old welds and re-weld. Make sure there is enough good metal left for proper penetration of the weld. Have fun.
Always liked the Ilitis, even when they were 20 years old, I worked on them less than half the time I worked on 5 year old LSVW's.
I heard tell (can not confirm in anyway/shape/ or form) that there is a mod kit that would allow you to put an Audi Quatro (5 cyl) engine into an Iltis. Any mods that can be done to a VW 4 cylinder gas engine (of appropriate year) should be able to be done to an Iltis. Only the body was different.
For those that have bought/been thinking about buying, check the frame at the point where the roll bar connects to the body (basically right beside the front seats). Many of them have extremely bad stress cracks. You may want to cut out the old welds and re-weld. Make sure there is enough good metal left for proper penetration of the weld. Have fun.
Always liked the Ilitis, even when they were 20 years old, I worked on them less than half the time I worked on 5 year old LSVW's.
if you had to choose between an iltis or a jeep, for offroading, which would you choose?
can the iltis take the extreme offroading conditions that commercial jeep should be able to? and, if it breaks down, it is easy to repair in the field, like a jeep?
can the iltis take the extreme offroading conditions that commercial jeep should be able to? and, if it breaks down, it is easy to repair in the field, like a jeep?
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 210
Well, both have advantages. I would check out part sources before I bought either. Especially things like drive shafts and jack shafts, brakes and rims and tires.
The Iltis is very good off road, so are Jeeps. Iltis has less chance to roll over due to lower center of gravity and have bulit in skid plates. You might want to put a cover on the rear diff. Biggest pain in the butt for the Iltis can be the fuel pump. Put in a different electrical pump and mount it in a better spot. Replace the carb. Check the jack shaft bolts to see if they are not over torqued. I replaced more fuel pumps than anything else. Jack shafts would be a close second with the front CV joints close behind them.
I have limited exposure to CJ's/YJ's, so I can not comment properly on them.
The Iltis is very good off road, so are Jeeps. Iltis has less chance to roll over due to lower center of gravity and have bulit in skid plates. You might want to put a cover on the rear diff. Biggest pain in the butt for the Iltis can be the fuel pump. Put in a different electrical pump and mount it in a better spot. Replace the carb. Check the jack shaft bolts to see if they are not over torqued. I replaced more fuel pumps than anything else. Jack shafts would be a close second with the front CV joints close behind them.
I have limited exposure to CJ's/YJ's, so I can not comment properly on them.
The brilliant part about the Iltis is the motor; it's a bog standard VW motor that has been around since Centurion was a rank. Lots of parts availible, and lots of go-fast RACING parts too.
Building a ~180 HP Iltis would be like falling off a log, and with the addition of a turbo, I could build a ~320 HP Iltis without much trouble. That would be a hoot and a half.
My back-of-the-napkin Iltis design would be:
1) Pull the gas tank, and scoop out all the little anti-slosh foam balls. They break down with time, and jam up the fuel system, and are the root cause of 90% of Iltis fuel system troubles. While I was at it, I'd send the tank to ATL to be fitted with a proper rubber fuel cell, an internal fuel pump (Toyota Supra pump would do fine) and a provision for a fuel return line.
2) Do a little VW research, and find a cylinder head and manifold combination that had provisions for electronic fuel injection. This can be fabbed up from scratch, but it's easier sometimes to just use off-the-shelf parts. Connecting the thottle body to the Iltis military airbox will require some thinking (and some sillicone rubber hose) but isn't rocket science. Proper head selection should get you more compression, better flow, and a hotter cam as well.
3) Hook up a decent aftermarket EFI computer and distributorless ignition system. This gets you away from the Iltis POS carb (carbs suck in general) and eliminates distributor caps and rotors as points of failures. You pick up the crank trigger wheel as a point of failure... but it's easy to carry spares of those, and the performance and reliability bump you get from not having to deal with the carb and distributor is signifigant. Depending on the cam and head, this should be ~ 120-150 HP instead of the stock (ha!) 80-ish, and in something as light as an Iltis, you'll feel it.
4) While we're at it, replace the stock Iltis plastic rad cap with a proper metal one. This might need a metal overflow tank - no big deal.
5) Pull the stock Iltis non-self-adjusting (!!) drum brakes and throw them as far away from the vehicle as possible. Replace with discs on all 4 corners. Might get lucky and find a VW package that bolts right up, otherwise investigate stock car or maybe Formula Atlantic brakes. Might need new master cylinders.
6) Yank the stock seats and replace with something FIA certified from Sparco or MOMO, and install proper 5-point harnesses. Weld the roll bar to the floor, and do door bars forward to brace the tub across the weak point, to keep it from folding in half when you jump it.
This fixes all the major reliability and safety issues, and adds a great big heaping helping of YEEHAA!
DG
Building a ~180 HP Iltis would be like falling off a log, and with the addition of a turbo, I could build a ~320 HP Iltis without much trouble. That would be a hoot and a half.
My back-of-the-napkin Iltis design would be:
1) Pull the gas tank, and scoop out all the little anti-slosh foam balls. They break down with time, and jam up the fuel system, and are the root cause of 90% of Iltis fuel system troubles. While I was at it, I'd send the tank to ATL to be fitted with a proper rubber fuel cell, an internal fuel pump (Toyota Supra pump would do fine) and a provision for a fuel return line.
2) Do a little VW research, and find a cylinder head and manifold combination that had provisions for electronic fuel injection. This can be fabbed up from scratch, but it's easier sometimes to just use off-the-shelf parts. Connecting the thottle body to the Iltis military airbox will require some thinking (and some sillicone rubber hose) but isn't rocket science. Proper head selection should get you more compression, better flow, and a hotter cam as well.
3) Hook up a decent aftermarket EFI computer and distributorless ignition system. This gets you away from the Iltis POS carb (carbs suck in general) and eliminates distributor caps and rotors as points of failures. You pick up the crank trigger wheel as a point of failure... but it's easy to carry spares of those, and the performance and reliability bump you get from not having to deal with the carb and distributor is signifigant. Depending on the cam and head, this should be ~ 120-150 HP instead of the stock (ha!) 80-ish, and in something as light as an Iltis, you'll feel it.
4) While we're at it, replace the stock Iltis plastic rad cap with a proper metal one. This might need a metal overflow tank - no big deal.
5) Pull the stock Iltis non-self-adjusting (!!) drum brakes and throw them as far away from the vehicle as possible. Replace with discs on all 4 corners. Might get lucky and find a VW package that bolts right up, otherwise investigate stock car or maybe Formula Atlantic brakes. Might need new master cylinders.
6) Yank the stock seats and replace with something FIA certified from Sparco or MOMO, and install proper 5-point harnesses. Weld the roll bar to the floor, and do door bars forward to brace the tub across the weak point, to keep it from folding in half when you jump it.
This fixes all the major reliability and safety issues, and adds a great big heaping helping of YEEHAA!
DG
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 210
Recce, you have far too much time on your hands my friend ;D
A 320 hp Iltis? the mind boggles how fast that frame would go......... Any info on how the stock Michelin X tires would perform at high speeds? With the new tires, a couple of our better ones would do 120+ kph on the way to Wainwright, with a good fuel pump and carb (and plug wires and cap+rotor and coil and.......)
A 320 hp Iltis? the mind boggles how fast that frame would go......... Any info on how the stock Michelin X tires would perform at high speeds? With the new tires, a couple of our better ones would do 120+ kph on the way to Wainwright, with a good fuel pump and carb (and plug wires and cap+rotor and coil and.......)
Top speed is going to be gear limited, not power limited, but it'll get there a lot faster.
With the military tires, that much power on pavement is going to be a handful, and wheelspin will be a real problem at full song - although that's a saving grace, as if it starts hooking up hard transmission and axle failures will start to become issues.
But off-road... look out. It'd be like a little bitty Group B rally car. >
And in case you think I'm talking out my ass, check out http://farnorthracing.com That's me. 350 HP/380 ft-lbs of torque from a 2.0l 4 banger. 0-60 in 3.4 seconds, corners at 1.7G
DG
With the military tires, that much power on pavement is going to be a handful, and wheelspin will be a real problem at full song - although that's a saving grace, as if it starts hooking up hard transmission and axle failures will start to become issues.
But off-road... look out. It'd be like a little bitty Group B rally car. >
And in case you think I'm talking out my ass, check out http://farnorthracing.com That's me. 350 HP/380 ft-lbs of torque from a 2.0l 4 banger. 0-60 in 3.4 seconds, corners at 1.7G
DG
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 210
I'm looking at picking up an Iltis soon. Are the VW parts in it still availible? It needs a bit of work. does anyone know where you can pick up a repair manual or a PAM on the Iltis?
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 160
There are a couple of posts around here that address the issues you mentioned:
http://forums.army.ca/forums/threads/37307.0.html
Parts are from a VW Rabbit car, and those are plentiful in scrapyards (go figure).
http://forums.army.ca/forums/threads/37307.0.html
Parts are from a VW Rabbit car, and those are plentiful in scrapyards (go figure).
Colin Parkinson
Army.ca Myth
- Reaction score
- 11,759
- Points
- 1,160
I liked the locking diff they came with, not to mention the joy of a soft top that didn't leak and doors that kept most of the wind out, they were an improvement on the M151's we had, although the M38 was still a fine piece of kit, even when worn out and old.
- Reaction score
- 4,136
- Points
- 1,120
If someone really wants an Iltis, there's a guy around the corner from me with one for sale.
He's been driving/repairing them for 7+ years.
NS
He's been driving/repairing them for 7+ years.
NS
- Reaction score
- 4,136
- Points
- 1,120
Not 100% sure, he just said he had a good one that he's selling. (He said 95%)
He sold a 95% one to my neighbour across the road and helped him put a plow blade on it for doing his driveway!!!
This one's in supposedly that good shape as well.
Want me to ask?
NS
He sold a 95% one to my neighbour across the road and helped him put a plow blade on it for doing his driveway!!!
This one's in supposedly that good shape as well.
Want me to ask?
NS
- Reaction score
- 4,136
- Points
- 1,120
Roger,
I'll check on it today for you.
NS
I'll check on it today for you.
NS
Similar threads
