ABS Sensor, anybody know a thing or two about cars?

[ballz]

Good day folks,

The ABS sensor on my 2008 Subaru Impreza is broken and needs to be replaced. The part is $230 new at the dealership, I am trying to find an aftermarket version or get one at a junk yard. Anyway, since it seems easy as pie to do the installation myself (take the tire off, plug one end into the engine, the other into the wheel, and a few bolts that keep the wire in place) I am just wondering one thing...

Currently, the check engine light is on, the ABS light is on, and the "Cruise" light is blinking. The mechanic tried to reset the engine light and his little computer thing says that it is due to the ABS sensor as well. He said that didn't make much sense to him, but whatever. What I am wondering is, if I install this the ABS sensor correctly, will all the lights go off once its set up, or do I need to bring it somewhere to get it "reset"? Is there a way to manually reset it instead?

It'd be nice to have a sure way of knowing that I did install the sensor properly and everything is in fact good to go.

 

[AmmoTech90]

You can get an On board diagnostics (OBD2) reader from Princess Auto that will tell you what codes the engine is throwing up and allow you to rest them. http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Code-Readers/AutoLink-AL301-OBDII-And-CAN-Code-Reader/8454308.p
I got mine on sale for 30 bucks, look around.  These are useful to have now that industry has standardized, you can keep them from car to car and not have to pay a garage to find out your gas cap needs replacing.

There's a bunch of different causes apparently for those three, from a bad/loose gas cap to needing a new cam shaft or tranny to snow in the wheels.  Search abs check engine light subaru in Google.

This may be a way to get the codes without a reader, it says it is for 05-09 Legacy and Outback, might work on Impreza or there might be an equivalent process

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/19053-06-09-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html

 

[acen]

Replacing the part is easy, definitely a "do it yourself" if you can turn a wrench. The ABS sensor works by telling the ABS modulator whether a wheel is locked, and it does so via a magnet. Sometimes little metal particles are picked up on the road and will collect on the sensor to the point of it no longer being effective, so sometimes a pressure wash or a wipedown can fix your issues. I would try that first.

Now, for the OBDII codes, you can go the cheap way and just go to PartSource or other major auto parts stores (probably even Canadian Tire) and they will lend you an OBDII scanner for a security deposit. You can reset your codes this way. I generally try to do repairs to my car on my own so I just bought my own at CT, an Innova 3030, and it has long paid for itself. It will not do ABS though (only higher end units do) so the parts store method is probably best if the code doesn't clear itself.

Good luck!

 

[ballz]

Replacing the part is easy, definitely a "do it yourself" if you can turn a wrench. The ABS sensor works by telling the ABS modulator whether a wheel is locked, and it does so via a magnet. Sometimes little metal particles are picked up on the road and will collect on the sensor to the point of it no longer being effective, so sometimes a pressure wash or a wipedown can fix your issues. I would try that first.

Now, for the OBDII codes, you can go the cheap way and just go to PartSource or other major auto parts stores (probably even Canadian Tire) and they will lend you an OBDII scanner for a security deposit. You can reset your codes this way. I generally try to do repairs to my car on my own so I just bought my own at CT, an Innova 3030, and it has long paid for itself. It will not do ABS though (only higher end units do) so the parts store method is probably best if the code doesn't clear itself.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info, borrowing a OBDII scanner will be much more practical.

I don't think a pressure washer will work, the wire is pulled right off of the plug thing, can't even solder it back together.. its a new part or nothing.

 

[acen]

Ouch, yeah, that would warrant a new one. Search online though, I am sure there is a Scooby forum or five with the proper answers, a step by step replacement guide, and maybe even a local owners group that will have a wrench or two that is willing to lend your their scanner for a beer. Might have a good online shop suggestion to get the part at also!

Good luck!

 

[ballz]

Just an update, hopefully it helps someone else...

I replaced the ABS sensor (pretty easy) but only the ABS light went off, while "Check Engine" light stayed on and the "Cruise" light continued to blink... after swearing a bit I came back upstairs and started Googling...

Basically, once the ABS sensor got mangled, the "ECU" went into "safe" mode. Replacing the ABS sensor doesn't change that (even though it was the ABS sensor that caused it to go into "safe" mode). So I just had to reset the ECU (unplug the battery, pump the brakes, turn on the car and voila!) and the check engine light went off, cruise light went off, and now the car will rev past 4000rpms again (it would not while in "safe" mode.)

Another great feat that can be chalked up to Google and YouTube.

 

[cupper]

That seems to be a common theme with the electronic systems these days. Once you replace a faulty component you need to do a reset to the system to clear the faults.

I had a TPMS sensor that needed to be replaced due to a leak from a cracked stem, took it to a local tire shop, they replaced it but a couple of days later the warning light started flashing, and would then periodically come on for several minutes then shut off.

Took it back, they checked it over and couldn't find anything wrong. The did a a system reset and the problem is no longer there.

Now I just need to get another slow leak diagnosed.